As one of my favourite designers, I was so excited to hear about the new film that was created on the fabulous Yves Saint Laurent, so last weekend I finally went to go see it.
Yves Saint Laurent is one of the greatest visionary designers of our time who revolutionised the way we see fashion. The film looked at the life of Saint Laurent from the beginning of his career in 1958 and when he met his lover Pierre Berge and ultimately until his death.
The name in itself is one I think most people will recognise, but the story behind the man who created a trademark is relatively unknown. To be completely honest, I was pretty disappointed. I understand it was about YSL the human being, not YSL the label, but the movie delved so far deep into his troubled middle years, alcoholism, drug addiction and homosexuality that the work he created was lost and clouded with negativity and wasn't a tribute to a fashion icon still succeeding in the 21st century.
It started and finished with the narration from Pierre Berge who essentially 'exposes' YSL for what he is, which for me was a little crass. That being said, there were a few great moments (even if it was only a few) where we saw the talent and creativity of YSL shine. In 1957, YSL was named Christian Dior's successor and its here we see his skills come to life. His Spring 1958 collection ultimately saved the enterprise from financial ruin and it was a great section of the film when you see the collections demurely paraded in front of the top magazine editors- how things have changed!
In 1960, he was conscripted before the stress caused him to check into a mental institution. It's here we start to see the downfall of YSL as mental illness, alcoholism and drugs take over. Yes, we see him create his own fashion empire in the film (just) but there is just no detail behind it.
YSL was the first couturier to come out (pun not intended) with a full ready to wear line, he introduced the tuxedo suit for women, and in 1983 became the first living fashion designer to be honored by the Metropolitan Museum of Art with a solo exhibition. His designs sat atop the fashion world; models and actresses gushed over his creations. He outfitted women in blazers and smoking jackets, and introduced attire like the pea coat to the runway.
In 1985, Caroline Rennolds Milbank wrote, 'The most consistently celebrated and influential designer of the past twenty five years, Yves Saint Laurent can be credited with both spurring the couture's rise from its sixties ashes and with finally rendering ready-to-wear reputable."
This is how I want to remember Yves Saint Laurent.
